Installation Guide

Water Supply Systems in India

• Overhead Tank Supply (OHT) — Most Common: Most Indian homes receive water via a rooftop overhead tank, typically 5–10 metres above the bathroom floor, generating approximately 0.5–1.0 kg/cm² static pressure. This is adequate for most Citizen Bath products under normal conditions. However, low OHT levels — common during municipal supply shortages — can reduce pressure below the product's operating minimum.
• Direct Municipal Supply: In many Indian cities, municipal supply is intermittent — available for only 1–4 hours per day. During supply hours, pressure can spike significantly before dropping to near zero. These surges, especially when supply resumes suddenly, can stress fittings and joints if they are not correctly sealed and pressure-tested.
• Underground Sump + Pump Systems: High-rise apartments and many independent homes use a sump-to-OHT pump arrangement. Booster pumps that feed directly to bathrooms — common in Mumbai high-rises and newer Delhi apartment complexes — can deliver 2.5–4.0 kg/cm². Verify your building's supply pressure before installation begins.
• Borewell Supply: Common in South India and tier-2/tier-3 cities. Borewell water is typically harder and may contain elevated iron, calcium, and dissolved mineral content. This accelerates aerator blockage, internal valve wear, and surface staining — all of which are site conditions, not manufacturing defects.

Hard Water — A Critical Indian Reality

India has some of the hardest municipal and groundwater supply in the world. Cities such as Delhi, Jaipur, Ahmedabad, Pune, and large parts of Maharashtra and Rajasthan routinely record water hardness above 300–600 ppm — classified as very hard to extremely hard. This is a primary cause of aerator clogging, showerhead nozzle blockage, white scale deposits on chrome and PVD surfaces, ceramic disc cartridge wear, and staining on matte finish and stainless steel. All such effects are water quality conditions and are not covered under product warranty.

Pipe Standards in India

• Thread standard: Citizen Bath products use BSP (British Standard Pipe) threads — the dominant standard in Indian plumbing. However, older properties and some regional plumbers may work with non-standard or worn threads. Always verify compatibility before fitting.
• Pipe materials: Indian plumbing uses a mix of CPVC, uPVC, GI (Galvanised Iron), and copper. GI pipes — common in older properties — are prone to internal corrosion, rust particles, and scale. Flush all GI supply lines for at least 60 seconds before connecting any fitting. Debris from GI pipes entering a tap cartridge is a leading cause of early dripping failure and is not a manufacturing defect.
• Pipe sizing: Standard residential supply in India is 15mm (½ inch) for individual fittings and 20–25mm for mains. Confirm sizing before purchasing adaptors.

Operating Specifications

Installation Steps

1. Flush the supply lines first: Open the supply and run water freely for 60 seconds before connecting the tap. This is especially critical in homes with GI pipes or newly laid CPVC, where rust particles, swarf, and flux residue are common. Debris entering the cartridge is a leading cause of premature dripping and is not a manufacturing defect.
2. Apply PTFE thread seal tape: Wrap 3–4 layers of quality PTFE tape clockwise (as viewed from the thread end) on all male threaded inlets. Do not substitute with paste sealant compounds (Fevicol, Araldite-type, or plumber's putty) — these harden and make future removal extremely difficult without damaging the fitting.
3. Hand-tighten first: Thread all connections fully by hand until finger-tight before applying any wrench. Preventing cross-threading at this stage is critical — cross-threaded brass fittings cannot be repaired.
4. Tighten with controlled torque — not full force: Apply a maximum of ¼ to ½ turn beyond finger-tight with an adjustable wrench. This is the most critical step in the entire installation. The single most common cause of tap failure in India is a plumber applying full pipe-wrench force — the same technique appropriate for heavy GI pipe — to a precision brass tap body. Citizen Bath taps are not GI fittings. Cracking the body or shearing the inlet thread from over-tightening is the installer's sole responsibility and voids all warranty coverage.
5. Protect the surface finish before wrench contact: Wrap wrench jaws in a thick cloth before any contact near the tap body. Chrome, matte, and PVD surfaces scratch permanently from bare metal contact — this damage is irreversible and not covered under warranty.
6. For concealed / in-wall taps: Install the body and inlet elbows at the chasing / rough-in stage, before plastering. Set inlet elbows at the correct projection depth per the product data sheet. Do not plaster or tile over the wall until a full pressure test has been completed and passed.
7. Pressure test before wall closure: Restore supply and test under live pressure for 30 minutes minimum before plastering or tiling. Any leak discovered after wall closure requires complete wall demolition — a cost borne entirely by the site.
8. Aerator pre-flush: Remove the aerator insert before first use. Restore flow and flush for 30 seconds to clear supply-line debris. Replace the aerator. In homes with GI pipes, this step is not optional — skipping it will cause immediate aerator blockage.

Do's & Don'ts

Operating Specifications

Pressure Assessment — Before Installation

• Overhead tank supply: If your OHT is positioned less than 5 metres above the shower arm outlet, dynamic pressure will likely be insufficient for satisfactory performance — particularly for rain showers and multi-function systems which demand higher flow rates. Measure tank height before product selection.
• Booster pump supply: Buildings with booster pumps feeding directly to bathrooms typically deliver 2.0–4.0 kg/cm². Ideal for shower performance. If pressure exceeds 4.0 kg/cm², a pressure reducing valve (PRV) is recommended to protect internal components from premature wear.
• Low pressure remedy: A dedicated inline shower booster pump can be installed on the cold supply. Performance complaints arising from insufficient site pressure are not covered under warranty.

Installation Steps

1. Rough-in — concealed valve: Install the concealed valve body during the chasing/civil stage. In Indian construction, walls are typically plastered 12–18mm thick. Account for both plaster and tile thickness when setting valve depth — the trim plate must sit flush against the finished tile surface, not recessed or proud.
2. Chase supply pipes and photograph: After chasing inlet positions into the wall, photograph the exact pipe positions before plastering. Hot supply on the left, cold on the right — universal standard. Plumbers frequently deviate from marked positions; a photograph provides a definitive reference before and after plastering.
3. Shower arm: Apply PTFE tape to the wall thread. Insert the arm, align to angle, and tighten with controlled wrench torque — cloth-protected. Use a spirit level to verify horizontal alignment before finalising. A crooked shower arm is permanent once the wall is tiled.
4. Overhead shower head: Thread onto the arm with PTFE tape applied. Hand-tighten and apply ¼ turn maximum with a cloth-protected wrench. In hard water areas, the inlet strainer should be removed and cleaned monthly to prevent mineral restriction of flow.
5. Hand shower and hose: Hose connections use rubber washer seals — do not apply PTFE tape to these ends. Tighten by hand only. Mount the bracket at 1500–1700mm from floor to bracket centre.
6. 30-minute soak test before wall closure: This step is non-negotiable. Restore supply and run the full shower system for a minimum of 30 minutes. Check all concealed connections. Only proceed to plastering and tiling after a confirmed, dry, leak-free soak test. A missed concealed leak discovered after tiling requires complete wall demolition — a cost borne entirely by the site.

Do's & Don'ts

Floor Slope Specification

Installation Steps

1. Set drain body during screed — not after: The drain must be fixed at the correct level during the screed stage, before waterproofing and before tiling. This is the most commonly violated sequence in Indian construction. Installing the drain after waterproofing — which requires cutting into the membrane — breaks the seal entirely and will cause leakage. This is a site error and is not covered under warranty or return policy.
2. Floor gradient: Lay the screed with a continuous fall toward the drain on all sides — minimum 1:100 gradient. Verify with a spirit level and straight edge in all directions. Standing water caused by insufficient gradient is a construction defect, not a product issue.
3. Waterproofing membrane: Apply waterproofing over the full wet area floor and at least 150–200mm up all walls after the drain body is set and before tiling. The membrane must bond fully to the drain flange. Common Indian waterproofing systems — Dr. Fixit, Fosroc, Pidilite-based — are all compatible with Citizen Bath drain flanges. Allow full cure time per the membrane manufacturer's specification before tiling.
4. Anti-odour trap priming: Before grouting, fill the trap with water to establish the water seal. In Indian climates — particularly in bathrooms that see intermittent use or are in hot, dry regions — trap water evaporates faster than in temperate climates. Pour water into all floor drain traps weekly during dry periods to maintain the odour seal. A dry trap smell is a maintenance matter, not a product defect.
5. Centre hole vs. side outlet: Confirm your outlet configuration before ordering. Centre-hole connects directly downward through the floor slab — the most common configuration in Indian construction. Side outlet connects laterally into the screed layer — used where slab penetration is not possible. Centre-hole is a custom configuration and is non-returnable.
6. Shower drain channel alignment: Set the channel level and straight along its full length before the screed sets. The channel top must be level with the finished tile surface. Use the supplied cutting template for tile-insert gratings — do not estimate freehand. An incorrectly cut tile-insert results in a loose, rattling grate and is not a warranty matter.
7. Protect PVD and matte finish gratings: Apply masking tape over all special-finish gratings during grouting and tiling. Remove immediately after grouting — do not leave adhesive tape on PVD surfaces for extended periods. Grout or tile adhesive contact with PVD or matte finish causes permanent staining and voids warranty coverage for that component.
8. Flow test before tiling: Pour a bucket of water into the drain area before tile adhesive is applied. Verify free drainage and confirm no leaks at the outlet connection below the slab before proceeding.

Installation Specifications

Installation Steps

1. Coordinate with the platform contractor: The cutout must be made by the stone contractor using the paper template supplied with the sink — preferably before the counter slab is installed. Cutting granite in-situ after installation is difficult, risky, and increases the chance of an oversized cutout. An oversized cutout cannot be corrected and prevents a proper silicone seal.
2. Tap hole and RO hole drilling: Drill all tap holes and the RO (reverse osmosis) inlet hole in the sink before fitting. RO purifiers are standard in most Indian homes — confirm the RO hole position with the plumber and kitchen layout before drilling. Important: tap hole and RO hole configurations are custom — once drilled the sink is non-returnable under any circumstances. Verify placement before drilling.
3. Matte finish surface protection: Lay the sink face-down on a clean, soft surface — a folded gunny bag or foam sheet works well on Indian sites. Never drag or slide the sink across a hard surface. Matte finish scratches permanently from grit and rough contact. These scratches are not covered under warranty.
4. Silicone sealant — critical Indian market advisory: Use only neutral-cure silicone. Do not use acetoxy-cure silicone — recognisable by its strong vinegar smell during application — which is extremely common and cheap in Indian hardware shops. Acetoxy silicone releases acetic acid as it cures, corroding stainless steel and degrading seals over time. Use Pidilite Silicone, Dow Corning 795, or any clearly labelled neutral-cure variant.
5. Under-mount installation: Apply a continuous, even bead of neutral-cure silicone around the full sink rim. Lift the sink from below, align centrally in the cutout, and secure with the supplied mounting clips evenly around the perimeter. Do not rely on silicone alone — temperature variation in Indian kitchens can compromise silicone-only mounting over time.
6. Top-mount installation: Apply silicone to the underside of the sink rim before lowering into the cutout from above. Press evenly. Wipe excess silicone immediately with a dry cloth before it begins to skin.
7. Cure time — 24 hours minimum: Do not run water, test the waste, or demonstrate the sink to the client until the silicone has fully cured. Premature water exposure compromises the seal and causes leakage into the cabinet below — which may go undetected until significant cabinet damage has occurred.
8. Waste fitting: Fit with the rubber gasket correctly seated on both sides. Hand-tighten and apply ¼ turn with cloth-protected pliers. Do not over-tighten — the waste body will crack. In hard water areas, clean the waste strainer monthly to prevent mineral build-up restricting drainage.

Do's & Don'ts

Finish-Specific Care Guide

Indian Conditions Maintenance Schedule

• Weekly — Drain Trap Refill: In Indian bathrooms — particularly in hot, dry climates (Rajasthan, Gujarat, interior Maharashtra) or in bathrooms used infrequently — pour half a bucket of water into all floor drain traps weekly. High ambient temperatures cause trap water to evaporate rapidly, allowing sewer gas entry. This is a maintenance task, not a product defect.
• Monthly — Aerator Cleaning: Unscrew the aerator insert from each tap. Soak in warm water for 15–20 minutes to loosen mineral deposits. Rinse under running water. In very hard water cities — Delhi, Jaipur, Ahmedabad — clean fortnightly. Always remove the aerator before soaking; never apply descaling solution to an aerator that is still fitted to the tap. Replacement aerators are available through Citizen Bath support.
• Monthly — Shower Nozzle Cleaning: In hard water areas, rubber shower nozzles accumulate white mineral scale within weeks. Rub the nozzles firmly with your fingers under running water to dislodge deposits. For stubborn scale, remove the shower head and soak the face in warm water for 30 minutes. Do not use descaling acid on PVD-coated shower heads.
• Monthly — Drain Grating Cleaning: Remove and rinse all floor drain and channel gratings. Clear soap scum, hair, and mineral residue from the trap cup. Flush with hot water before replacing.
• Quarterly — Washer and Seal Inspection: In Indian conditions — with intermittent supply, pressure surges, and hard water — washers and O-rings wear faster than in stable-supply environments. Inspect for dripping taps and replace washers promptly. Replacement components are available from Citizen Bath support.
• Quarterly — Hard Water Scale Check: Inspect all chrome and PVD surfaces for white mineral spotting. Address promptly with a damp microfibre cloth while deposits are still soft. Once hard water scale calcifies, removal without damaging the finish becomes very difficult.
• Annual — Full System Inspection: Have an experienced plumber inspect all concealed connections, flexible hoses, and visible joints annually. Indian supply conditions — with frequent pressure cycles and intermittent flow — accelerate wear on flexible hoses and push-fit connections. Replace any hose showing signs of bulging, cracking, or surface corrosion before failure occurs.